THE DO-IT-ALL RUSSELL

Russell Moccasin is run by a bunch of humble folks. They don’t really brag that they are one of the oldest boot brands in the USA, or that their boots were the ones chosen for the first ever thru-hike of the Appalachian trail, or that their boots were chosen to be the first boots to fly to the stratosphere, or even that so many of their boots are in the Smithsonian that you could probably find your size behind a glass container.

Russell Moccasin is too humble to brag about their history—but I’m not Russell Moccasin, I’m Michael, from the Iron Snail, and this is the Russell Moccasin x Iron Snail Collaboration. So, I’m going to brag about Russell Moccasin’s history.

RM was founded the same year New York City became New York City and the year Annie Oakley offered 50 ‘lady sharpshooters’ to President McKinley if war were to break out with Spain. Since then, Russell Moccasin has been chosen by actors, Presidents, Kings, and some of the fiercest outdoorsmen on the planet. When digging through the Russell archives, you’re immediately hit with stories of men walking 1,200 miles through the wilderness on a pair of leather-bottomed Russells, men venturing out on treacherous journeys, and writing to Russell to compliment them on the durability and comfort of their boots, and of course, legends of the outdoor world, like Eddie Bauer, doing their own bragging about Russell’s quality in their old catalogues. Russell Moccasin is a brand so notable to the world of boots that they patented construction methods that are now used by brands all around the world.

Beyond all of that, and 127 years later, we have the Premier Chukka. A boot revived from patterns dating to the 1960s — complete with a recreated label from that era and a box style to match. My goal and Luke’s goal were to bring an everyday boot into the fold.

PREMIER CHUKKA DNA AND PURPOSE

The Goal: This collaboration is reviving the Premier Chukka boot from Russell with a few tweaks. Its goal is to be a lighter-weight do-it-all boot. Luke and my focus was on reducing weight, reducing “lace-up time”, making a boot that can be worn trekking through the woods, out to dinner, casually in the office, or anything in between. Specifically for me, my time is spent pretty equally between: being in the woods/at camps in the great state of Maine, being in NYC for work, and hardcore traveling in between. I previously wore Russell Backcountries as my near daily boot—but they were pretty beastly at the airport, slow to lace when leaving to go for a hike with friends, and I think they scared people when I was in NYC (“What woods did that guy even come from? We’re in Manhattan?”).

I wanted a lightweight, tough-as-nails, moccasin boot that I’d never hesitate to wear—this is what I found in the archives. My perfect daily boot. The boot I want to wear canoeing on a lake, making burgers with friends, and hiking up a mountain in.

PREMIER CHUKKA PROFILE ANALYSIS:

-Please note that this boot is build on the 77 shoe last for a sleek profile that is easy to dress up. If you want to learn more about our lasts, watch our "BEFORE YOU BUY" video.

- Water resistance: spanking! It’s not a double vamp (a boot with a water-resistant leather sock on the inside), but I personally don’t have a problem with it. Puddles, rain, mud, etc., all good. The reduced weight and added breathability in an all-around boot even it out for me.

- Lacing: Are you the boot guy in your friend group? Yeah? So, everyone makes fun of you for taking 10 years to tie your laces? Yeah? Problem solved. There are two army studs on the lacing system and one eyelet above. Want speed?! Stop at those army studs and you’re good to go. Want a little extra security? Lace that outer eyelet and you’re locked in.

- Leather Types: Weathered Oak roughout and Chromexcel. Chromexcel always felt like “clay” to me—it’s stuffed with hot oils and waxes and has been one of the gold standards in boots for a looooooong time now. Those waxes and oils are what give it that “clay” feel—it’s incredibly satisfying to the touch and bend. It was first used in tank gaskets, so it’s pretty darn tough and element protective. Note that Chromexcel shows tool marks very easily due to the high wax content and rigorous wet-lasting process to make a Russell boot. Expect to see those tool marks on the finished product. Weathered Oak roughout is Russell’s traditional leather…flipped. Still extremely weather resistant, can take a whole bucket of wax if you want to make it impenetrable, and is extra-extra-extra durable to scratches and slices. Truly, you can’t go wrong with either — they’re monsters.

- Hidden Details: For this run, the standout feature on the Premier Chukka was the integrated backstay/pull tab on the back of the boot. I love details like that. Combining an essential part of a boot with a convenience feature while also reducing the number of sewing steps needed and increasing the tab strength is brilliant—shoutout to whoever at Russell had that idea back then. The result, as you can see, is an extremely sleek integration that feels incredibly natural when it pops into place after you put your boots on. I didn’t want to slap “SNAIL” on our first collaboration boot…but look around that area to see if you can find a hidden note.

YOUR JOB

These are not cheap boots, and they can’t be. Russell Moccasin is one of the few brands in the world keeping this craft alive, not just because the art form should be kept alive, but because it has serious benefits to everyday wear. Luke Kolbie can wear his great-grandfather’s Russell Moccasins still. By utilizing true moccasin construction and an overlap seam, you’re met with a construction method that can compete with modern technology, 127 years later. These boots are no joke. Your job is to wear these boots into the ground, go camping with them, go hiking with them, and make memories in them. Men walked 1,200 miles in these puppies and then kept wearing them—don’t worry about them so much, get them dirty, and let them morph into their true form. They’ll look better, feel better, and become your boot, and then, your great-grandson will thank you for breaking them in.

Russell Collaborations

Iron Snail Premier Chukka - Burgundy Chromexcel

Iron Snail Premier Chukka - Roughout Weathered Oak